The History of Surfing

History of Surfing: When Did it Become famous?

 

Riding within powerful waves have long existed by the time humans have learned how to swim in the ocean. Surfing as we know today is the sport or activity wherein we ride surf boards that helps us move along the power of the wave, “The stronger wind, the higher the wave, the better.” The earliest recorded history of surfing would be dated as far as 1778 were in a European explorer by the name of Captain James Hook was tasked to go to Hawaii. The captain was able to record a brief detailed description about surfing. The document that the captain has done actually became the earliest recorded event as far as the history of surfing is concerned.

 

According to his book, he saw men and women ages 20 to 30 years old surfing, using a flat oval object of their same size and width. They lay themselves flat, legs close with arms open in order to guide their direction. Instead of being afraid of the powerful waves, he saw the people await the biggest wave possible. By the time that they have ridden the wave, they start to move with a magnificent speed that only they themselves can easily control.

 

Upon seeing the dangerous acts, he thought that the act itself is not possible and that injuries of such could only be the result of their action. As the captain observes how the wave weakens, he noticed that the surfers got away from their planks and dove underneath the water in order to penetrate the wave and avoid any injuries from hitting the rocks near shore.

The dangerous wave that the captain saw was like a simple horse to the surfers because they can easily ride it without hesitancy. The Hawaiians looked at the wave; avoiding it if it was too strong then surfed, dived and swam if they find the wave bearable. Because of their magnificent feats, the captain of the ship even labeled the people living there as amphibious human beings. Men and women alike have tendency to jump off the ship and survive for half of the day in water. As the captain observes the activity of these people, he found the exercise itself as something pleasurable even for a person to watch.

 

During this time of 1778, you can observe that Hawaiians are already skilled in surfing as if it was already part of their lives. Even if no records were created, it can be deduced that the people who lived there have long learned and created the art of surfing itself.

 

The history of surfing according to the view point of Hawaiians, are far more complex than that of the European explorers. Surfing itself is not just a sport or an exercise but a form of prayer and a sign of strength and wisdom for the people who have lived there. Surfing itself is regarded as the sport of kings. It is as must for the people who live in their culture to know the basics of surfing, and it is also a must that the king or chieftain of the tribe must be highly specialized in surfing. As a form of prayer, it is believed that surfing itself harbors good luck where in deities of the unknown would harness or would bless the greatest surfer with the richness of the ocean.

 

The history of surfing also has its own bitterness especially when Christianity came in place. Since surfing is not just a sport but a form of religion, ignorant Catholics have banded surfing as it is because it is considered as the worship of demons. Any persons who have caught surfing would be punished accordingly depending on their Christian laws. The probable reason why surfing was not successfully eliminated because Hawaiians and other people who know how to surf still continued to hone their skills despite punishments. A lot of persons were able to surf without being caught, until such time that surfing is accepted once more.

 

Even though surfing itself almost died, its practice still remains today. It is a sport to some, but it is also considered as a way of life (religion, philosophy etc.) by some individuals. A lot of advancements have been made ever since surfing was accepted in public once again. Surfing boards, surfing techniques and surfing organizations are rampant today because of the advancements that came through.

 

 Surfing that was once regarded as a pagan belief or practice is now regarded as one of the coolest sport being done by celebrities and famous individuals alike. The history of surfing is so rich that even today it is still being practiced by a lot of people.