Reading Surf Reports
by surf academy
Filed under Surf Academy
How to Read a Surf Report
As compared to the ski/snowboard forecasts or weather reports, surf reports are quite technical, but they are definitely helpful and will be an asset to you when searching for waves, as long as you have the capability to read them correctly. With the help of our guide, we hope that mystery surrounding these reports will vanish and next time when you plan to head out for your spot, you will be armed with the equipment and knowledge you need about the conditions on that particular day.
The Basics
You should pay attention to four main factors when you are learning of ways on how to read a surf report, that is tides, swell direction, wind (air and water temperature are important, but won’t affect the conditions as much) and wave height.
1. Tides- Tides can change the depth of the water, and can either expose or hide the rocks, points or beach, or which of the waves break. Few spots work nicely at high tide, some at the low tide, while others are best at mid tide. However, this does not mean that you cannot surf during off times, as you can even enjoy at that times because water is less crowded! In reports, it is referred to as an ideal time of the day, when waves are mostly going off.
2. Swell Direction-When learning of ways on how to read s surf report, you should pay due consideration to the swell direction. As its name suggests, it is the direction from where swell is originating. A southwest swell coming from the southwest direction, a west swell from the western direction and so on. Few spots work better depending upon the orientation of swell on the coast. You can even research on your favorite local spots to ascertain which of them are affected by the swell direction, and where your best bet is depending upon the swell direction.
3. Wind- While the direction of swell determines the existence of waves at your local spot, the swell period and height determines its size, wind is the main factor that determines the quality of the waves. Therefore, when you are learning of ways on how to read a surf report, you should also understand the basics on how the wind affects the surf, as it is important in predicting the conditions.
Scientifically, winds are responsible for giving birth to the waves by successfully transferring the energy from air to the sea water. In other words, winds have the power to make or break the favorable conditions at your local spot. A swell can hit perfectly, and can churn big waves, only to see those nasty on-shore winds ruining the party. It is important for you to know as to what is an onshore wind and offshore wind.
•On-shore winds-They are really bad as they can turn a sweet swell into messy and choppy waves. They are exactly opposite to the off-shore winds. If you imagine yourself facing the water, these winds will blat you in face or blow onto the shore. So, if there is no wind….it is good,…off-shore winds…also good. And…on-shore winds…really BAD. Most of the buoys measure wind based on the compass reading and its speed.
•Offshore winds-They are usually good. You can imagine them as facing the water and offshore wind will hit you in your back or blow off the shore.
4. Wave Height-Most of the surfers are interested in just one thing before heading out, “how big are the waves today?” Now, the answer to this question depends on two factors, swell interval and swell height. For instance, many surf reports quote the wave height condition as 6 ft at 14 second. The first number signifies the swell height and second one the period. Both these numbers play a significant role in determining the conditions on that particular day. The bigger the swell, the larger the waves would be on that particular day.
Now you know of tools that can help you in reading the surf reports and make proper decisions about the conditions at the local spot. Some sites are fitted with the beach cameras to show you the live feed on the conditions of waves. This can give you a fair idea on what these waves look like in the real time.